lol Probably true.
“This is once in a lifetime,” he said. “I know for a fact in another 20 or 30 years I won’t be doing the same thing, so I got to get it in while I can.”
https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.washingtonpost.com/amphtml/national/mother-nature-at-her-gnarliest-lane-draws-surfers-looking-for-epic-waves/2018/08/25/ddf9ae64-a7d8-11e8-a656-943eefab5daf_story.html
Maybe listening to his elders who want to surf but can’t.
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