But have spent a few days next to the ‘beach’ at Cartagena .
Too many street vendors there , pestering you , but took a day cruise from the harbor to a place called Isla Encanta ( Enchanted Island ) which was more pristine and like the Caribbean waters , clear and azure . There is a small resort with pool and dock – fairly attractive for a restful weekend . After that , boredom , aside from secondary cruises to sea life preserves , etc. Very small place , just a few guests . No other place to eat but at the resort .
Cartagena is interesting . Walled old town ( 1500’s ), big fortress similar to the one in St. Augustine , but much larger . Also La Popa above the city – an old cardinals’ palace . with a museum from the colonial era . Downtown central plaza ( colonial era again ) is very nice .
My wife spent a vacation in Santa Marta with her children , decades ago . She says it was a beautiful place at the time , but takes $$$$$ . May need a bi-lingual local to guide you (steer you away from traps on your first visit , but hotels typically will offer bus tours , etc.)
One bus tour we took in Cartagena ended the day at an emerald shop , and left us ( my wife looks gringa so was taken for an American ) there – probably paid to do so by the owners of the emerald shop . Fortunately , it was just a few blocks from the hotel – a ten minute walk , and still daylight . And no , we did not buy any emeralds . Years before I had bought a beautiful, large , clear one , very dark color , in Hong Kong . Nothing in the shop in Cartagena came close .
If you want beach walks , choose Daytona , etc. instead .
For lush , verdant scenery , with few tourists and good prices , the area around here ( Pereira ) cannot be beat . Modern hotels for under $ 100 per night , great food cheaper than comparable US quality restaurants , friendly people , but not much English . A chiva ( windowless bus ) ride through the jungle to nearby villages only about a dollar each way ( 1/2 hour with fantastic vistas along the way . Regular inter city buses ( windows and probably A/C , but not really needed here ) from the large terminal near the hotels run regularly to places like Santa Rosa de Cabal on the helical road between the two towns ( the drive itself is worth the buck fare ). My favorite restaurant is a cafe in Santa Rosa where you can eat outside in a bamboo forest . A meal of a thin steak , roasted pork fat back , pork tenderloin sausage , fried egg , rice , beans , avocado , and fried plantain on one big plate called Bandeja Paisa is about $ 6 . Add a dollar or so for freshly made juice , choice of mango , curuba , etc. in a water or milk base , your choice . This is the center of the coffee district , so if you are a coffee connoisseur you will not be disappointed .
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