Loading ...You probably would of done well surfing too. The longer you can hold your breath the higher waves you can surf. In North Cal they get up to 70 ft. For that you need to hold your breath 4-5 minutes just in case. The average seasoned surfer from what I remember is about 2 minutes. That will make you pretty safe in 20 footers.
North Cal just had a death. Surfs up isn’t really here he was just boogie boarding.
I have a problem diving because I’m buoyant. I keep wanting to float back up.
Gods probably was trying to keep me around for something. But when my little brother only nine swam out to where I was surfing and taking in a bully and having fun there he was and it pulled him under. I had a heck of a time even in the same undertow to keep diving deeper till I found him. Luckily I found him pretty quick.
( To clarify, I skipped around the subject. Not my brother but a bogie boarder was sadly killed) A shark got him a female surfer recognized something was off with his board something craving it, found him pulled him out but he was already gone.
Seems like every odd number year there’s a shark attack by the great whites.
Alex
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