Loading ...I agree, they brought the culture in the first place. Although movies made it over crowded
There is a difference though in waiting till your 60 to try it then been doing it all along. Not a good time to try the big waves although they’d never make it out there. It would make me think anyone who would say that though doesn’t or never surfed themselves which makes it humorous and said in ignorance since there’s so many of the best surfers in the world now older. But I could definitely see that it would not be a good thing to say in Hawaii lol but learn the history.
Ps Better late than never. That said If post a pick of me in the late 60s surfing but they put my name on the pictures.
Maya 1.25
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